Search results

Have a look at Aussie lockers I run them front and rear in my xj year round. Deep snow once your used to them they are great. And affordable.

On a dd i would do the rear and skip the front. Do you live in a snowy climate.

You should be able get it out. At least low enough to to get pliers or sometbing on it

And the front axles is determined by the t case not the transmission

It should. I gave up on mine I just drain and fill it. If the filter is plugged I have bigger problems. Like a failed clutch or something. A trans should never over it's life release enough junk to fill a filter. If it does there's a bigger problem

You gotta twist pull and hold your tongue right. Its a pain I soak the top in a little penetrating fluid. The o ring bakes in there good. Is this the aw4?

Jeep website has some. I may be able find my training book on it. It's even on the autos. I like it in the bush as it holds on hills and stuff. Great for tricky situations.

With no power the abs module won't work.

Nah. But it's hard to start these new ones with all the electronics. All the injectors need proper voltage, coils , etc. takes a little longer for the alternator to generate enough.

And it can be disabled.

It's hill start assit. The abs module keeps the brakes applied till torque is applied.

You would have to source stuff individually. The bearings you have to order at time of rebuild as they use a numbered system so the crank needs to be measured to get the proper bearing for each journal. If your going to bore it then I suggest upgrading to a hyperutectic piston.

Also if you drive in a winter climate. Mud tires are scary on ice as a all terrain will do better.

Oh ya they sound mean. They are on a 113 lsa cuz I spray the heck outta them. It is if you start a thread I would chime in with pics of setting up springs etc.

Run electric cut outs then it can be loud when ya want it and quiet when you need it. Lol I'm more of a sleeper quiet person but have had a few loud trucks. I always ran dyno max dumped after the muffler.

Also the installed height is dependent on the way the head was machined. If you can't get it at the spec you may need to machine or shim accordingly. Or run a spring with similar loads at your installed height as long as you don't get cool bind. Leave a minimum .060" at Max lift.

Yup. Always. I change my springs twice a year but I run .820 lift solid roller in my big block and a .710 lift in my small block lol. So I know what a good spring is lol. But anytime a spring has any kind of miles or on a tear down I replace them.

With cut out or flat style flares they look alright.

We have a waiting list for them at the dealership. People have out 20,000 down just waiting for them to come in on trade.

Shouldn't be bad. Just keep the old motor around. May need flex plate and dampener. Possibly front cover depending on where the crank and cam sensors are. As long as they are the same mill