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Is there any engine light on now or any stored codes?

If you go to a dealership they will have the right plugs. Often there are change ups. We have had problems with different brand plugs setting check engine lights for coil saturation time etc.

The good ol champion copper plus do the trick. They are cheap and work great. I'm a firm believer of oem all the way from all the problems we see from aftermarket junk at the shop.

Usually a head gasket or melt a piston. I've squeezed a few motors with a cam ground for race and not a nitrous and had some interesting results. From bent Rods to cummins blocks splitting right down the cam bore lol. But I'm talkin guys serious about power. A little boost and they live ok. But...

I ordered the Novak rad. Lol. Saved up my pennies.

Although its going to be tough with out my usual wheelin buddy. RIP chad. Miss ya bud.

Got it ready to break this weekend first 4x4 party of the year. Yee haw. Lol

The gm had the one heater hose at front or rear of intake. And the return dumped right back into the rad via a port on the passenger side of the rad.

It's a good thing the intake is on the opposite side of the plugs as the brake clean trick is also a great way of finding bad plug wires. haha. Speaking from experience.

^ knows everything about everyone????

Ya. Always gotta go cooler. You can run into fouling problems if your not built for it yet though.

I wouldn't run them. The only advantage the platinums and iridiums have is they last longer as the metal does not transfer as much as copper. As for performance the copper plugs keep close to the same performance in high heat and combustion pressures.

Just place them exactly 180 degrees apart and have someone roll one side axle slowly. That will roll them in. Might take once or twice to get them so you can put the pin in. Just watch your fingers.

Open carrier you can do in jeep in about 20 min. Removing the carrier would only add about a half hour to the process if it was trac lock then it would have to be removed

Yup. Mines a daily driver and wheeler. Got about 30,000 Kms of abuse on them. No problems. Just a little noise. Which is normal.

Yup. Works both ways. Stays locked solid till you let off the gas. They use the diff pin to push the plates out. To the side gear.

Aussie is a much stronger and affordable version of these. I run them front and rear. And they take a beating. I broke three powertrax lockers. Haven't even wore these out in 2 yrs yet.

It was burnt up. There was enough clutch material in the old fluid to keep it limping along. Once he drained it all out. All the particles went with it. Or fluid level is way to low. You need to drive it and see. If it is delayed engagement or If its slipping. Delayed engagement can be a...

Yup they were toast. The grooved material is the clutch material. Once it's gone they will just spin freely and get your diff fluid all nice and metallic.

The only time I run platinum is if they came from the factory with them. They have different resistances etc.