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It could only be more embarrassing if a Hummer pulled him out!

Maybe it's the gauge! Guages not working

I think I know what happened with mine. When I got it, it had no vacuum to the CAD. This due to most of the plastic lines being eaten by the only automotive chemical that could eat the plastic. So the P/O must have rigged it so the heat would work during winter. I will say that I discovered...

Thank you for your service guy's!!! Many of us really appreciate your dedication & the protection y'all are providing! Very8)!

Meh, I don't miss the snow one bit. 25+ years of working outside will do that to ya! It was kinda fun to wheel in though.

I wouldn't guess they clocked him in.:rolleyes:

Thanks for that info, an inverter I can buy whole, will be easier than cobbling it onto my welder. I'ma get one next time I go to Northern Tools!:idea:

Yeah, but it's connected to manifold vacuum. I think the factory might have done it that way on A/C delete vehicles.

Would 1500 watts be enough to run say a right angled grinder, or sawzall? My alternator/welder is unregulated & puts out 220 amps. Supposedly running up the rpm's will also increase voltage. With a meter I'll be able to set it at 110 volts. Not sure how many amps will be put out at that voltage...

Folks got stuck in the mud on the way to the ER, & blew the trans?:lol: You obviously don't know about all the secret ones!

I did not know that, my YJ only has heat. Plenty of it too, but it stays off when it's supposed to. I did toss the vac ball when I got the posi-lok. It wasn't connected to the heater in my junk.

I still need to get the stuff for my alt/welder to use the DC power for tools. I tossed around the idea of an inverter, but think further modding the welder will be more cost effective. I already have the hand throttle.

Is that connected to a regular inverter, or are you running it off an alternator/welder?

Get under there & grab all the rod ends and give them a shake to see what's loose. Tie rod ends can be replaced separately. Take a look at your steering damper while you're under there too. If it looks like original equipment, it prolly is.

The output stud has a locknut, this is what needs to be tightened. The output wire is between two nuts, & you need to hold the stud while tightening the nut that is closer to the alt. Be sure to remove the wire while doing this, & disconnect the positive battery terminal before doing anything...

I think I ended up replacing that with zip ties at some point, but there is duct tape somewhere on that heep. I lived in Pa. for 34 years, I am definitely a redneck!:lol:

OK, that's for the front axle disconnect. It has to do with locking the front axle when in 4WD. Shouldn't have anything to do with your alternator wire getting hot. Gotta be coincidental. Maybe you bumped a wire while working on the vacuum line & that wire then made a better contact.

OK, sounds like they were just worn out. I can't blame you for wanting to fix it right, brakes are important & not something to band-aid fix. Gotta be able to stop once in a while!

I have the stock suspension setup, but spring wrap is a big problem. I am currently working on this project I saw on another board. Here is a link to that build; Cheap traction bar!!!!!

Can you tell me where the vacuum line was connected to? Not that I would really know any better what to tell you, but it might shed some light on the matter. The ground strap thing is important BTW, goes for everyone. The factory cut some corners in that department.