Changed the water pump and fan clutch.
- Thread starter Pxxcmd
- Start date
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
How close is the fan to the radiator? Likely the lack of a shroud.
Turbogus
Active member
When I had no time and let a local shop first install the flowkooler water pump on 'Black Betty' they failed to read the instructions about clearances for the blocker plate, making a noise like an 8-71 blower. I removed it when I got it to my office and installed the correct gasket that had been supplied with their pump, that's all it took. The flowcooler pump's gasket being thicker than stock provided the adequte clearance, luckily it was a slow day at work, I had my tools so damage was minimal.
PoliceMonkey161
New member
Not to discount any of the great ideas you are getting or the work you have done, but have you removed the radiator cap (with a cold engine) and let it idle up to operating temp? Is coolant actually flowing through the inlet and moving across the rad. core? Does your radiator have an overflow (a nipple just below the cap) and if so, is it actually connected properly to an overflow with the corrrect pressure relief cap?
I've never have a shroud on either of my CJ's, but every one is different. I would think if it's over heating while moving, you would be getting plenty of air flow.
I've never have a shroud on either of my CJ's, but every one is different. I would think if it's over heating while moving, you would be getting plenty of air flow.
PoliceMonkey161
New member
I would........ You will see if your coolant is circulating and that the thermostat is opening and closing.
PoliceMonkey161
New member
Just take the cap off before (or just after) starting. Make certain that he engine is cold before removal (if your neverous, place a towel over the cap and remove it.). It make take several minutes for the engine to warm up, but at some point within the first 10 mins or so, you should see the coolant start flowing past the cap opening. Then it should stop for a minute or two, then flow again....... This would be the thermostat opening and closing.
If nothing flows at all, start small work bigger, let it cool off and remove your thermostat. With no thermostat in place, you should have a constant flow........ FYI, easy way to check a thermostat, put it in a pan on the stove. As the water heats up, you'll see the spring open.
It's not likely that the coolant channels within the block are colgged........ But you can go to any Auto store and get a flush kit....But hold off on that just yet. Let's see of our coolant is at least moving.
If nothing flows at all, start small work bigger, let it cool off and remove your thermostat. With no thermostat in place, you should have a constant flow........ FYI, easy way to check a thermostat, put it in a pan on the stove. As the water heats up, you'll see the spring open.
It's not likely that the coolant channels within the block are colgged........ But you can go to any Auto store and get a flush kit....But hold off on that just yet. Let's see of our coolant is at least moving.
PoliceMonkey161
New member
Also....Check for your overflow. If it is not plumbed in correctly wiht the tube below the coolant level at a cold start, it may cause overheating because it's stucking air back up rather than the over flowed (Flowed, correct term?) coolant.
However, not all radiators are set up with over flows depending on the year or upgrades. You would likely have an overflow.
Also, either replace the cap or the gasket. Your system is dependent on a closed loop during normal operation.
However, not all radiators are set up with over flows depending on the year or upgrades. You would likely have an overflow.
Also, either replace the cap or the gasket. Your system is dependent on a closed loop during normal operation.
Last edited:
Turbogus
Active member
Another thing when you're burping the cooling system, air may still be trapped in the heater core so pull the heater control to fully on when you burp the system.
You may not have to fab your own shroud, Omix Ada has one although it takes a little trimming for clearance for the lower radiator hose and drain petcock.
You may not have to fab your own shroud, Omix Ada has one although it takes a little trimming for clearance for the lower radiator hose and drain petcock.
PoliceMonkey161
New member
Questions after looking at your photo
1. Is it still overheating? If so at an idle or only while moving?
2. Maybe its just the photo, but the coolant looks funky........ If the engine is cool with the cap off (providing you can see the top of the inside of the radiator, if not drain a little coolant out), do the brass channels/ tubes have a layer of or even clumps of white chaulky stuff around the the little holes the coolant would travel down?
3. When you over heat, does the overflow activate and dump the coolant into the reservoir?
4. Lastly, mostly because I'm curious, how long did it bubble like that?
1. Is it still overheating? If so at an idle or only while moving?
2. Maybe its just the photo, but the coolant looks funky........ If the engine is cool with the cap off (providing you can see the top of the inside of the radiator, if not drain a little coolant out), do the brass channels/ tubes have a layer of or even clumps of white chaulky stuff around the the little holes the coolant would travel down?
3. When you over heat, does the overflow activate and dump the coolant into the reservoir?
4. Lastly, mostly because I'm curious, how long did it bubble like that?
Last edited:
