Hello, I’ve recently acquired a 69 CJ5 (225 Dauntless). It’s not in the best condition but I’ve got it running now. The previous owner had the wrong radiator installed and it overheats pretty fast. My question is, what does the correct radiator look like? (Hose size and location). Also, what other year models (Jeep or others) will fit this Jeep.
There are a number of them on ebay that all generally agree on size and shape:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...itleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=1965+jeep+radiator
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...itleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=1965+jeep+radiator
JPNinPA
Well-known member
A big item when considering a radiator is fin density. Many TJ owners who run in high and dry hot climates run into issues overheating cause they opted for aftermarket. The stock tj radiator has a high fin density. Even the three core aluminum aftermarkets couldn’t beat the stock radiator.
Second is fan shrouds. Shrouds help pull air evenly across the radiator and minimizes turbulence that pull past the rad.
Block out around the radiator so air is forced through. Typically at 30-35 mph air forced through is enough to keep it cool without a fan(don’t recommend running without a fan)
If there is a clutch on the fan be sure it operates correctly. Failing fans may be constantly engaged or slipping.
Be sure your coolant flow is not too high. High flow does not allow the coolant to absorb and release the heat. At the cylinders if glow is too fast hotspots firm and cause point boiling and damage. Likewise too fast through a radiator will not allow enough heat to transfer out before bring heated additionally. So proper water pump gpm and properly sized pully. Note pump rotation.
As well. The thermostat slows flow stuck closed or not opening is an issue as well as none or stuck open. Failsafe often fail and fail open.
Proper fluid and radiator cap lb.
The heater is an open bypass loop that aids circulation. Blocking these lines can be an issue of overheating.
And lastly open grills. Blocked airflow limits cooling.
Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up - Jesse Jackson
Second is fan shrouds. Shrouds help pull air evenly across the radiator and minimizes turbulence that pull past the rad.
Block out around the radiator so air is forced through. Typically at 30-35 mph air forced through is enough to keep it cool without a fan(don’t recommend running without a fan)
If there is a clutch on the fan be sure it operates correctly. Failing fans may be constantly engaged or slipping.
Be sure your coolant flow is not too high. High flow does not allow the coolant to absorb and release the heat. At the cylinders if glow is too fast hotspots firm and cause point boiling and damage. Likewise too fast through a radiator will not allow enough heat to transfer out before bring heated additionally. So proper water pump gpm and properly sized pully. Note pump rotation.
As well. The thermostat slows flow stuck closed or not opening is an issue as well as none or stuck open. Failsafe often fail and fail open.
Proper fluid and radiator cap lb.
The heater is an open bypass loop that aids circulation. Blocking these lines can be an issue of overheating.
And lastly open grills. Blocked airflow limits cooling.
Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up - Jesse Jackson
Last edited:
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