I'll try to post pics...have patience...OK! All parts not shown. Rust on frame is surface rust, was going to sandblast once welding was done. Write for more pics and questions. Serious inquiries please.
asking $3000
In St. Louis, MO area
I am willing to part out, but first want to try to sell complete for the first 3 weeks of listing. So if interested in parts, write me. I have all parts for this (chevy engine in pictures not included, but willing to sell separately). The Jeep was running until I tore it down to fix some body rot. You are basically buying the custom rolling chassis and roll cage with complete drive train from the Chevy bell housing on back, almost- ready to have a body mounted and engine installed. Tossed in for free is the original body that needs finishing work and the interior and electrical pieces. No steering column included, but easy to find and cheep. The chassis and drive train have about 30k proven miles (not abusive driving, very little mild offroading since built). Drive train parts have all been overhauled within those 30k miles.
Chassis includes: Custom build 3x2 inch tube frame (.120” wall); Full roll cage; Chevy motor mounts; GM bell housing , Munci 4 speed transmission and frame cross member mount; Dana 18 transfer case; Warn overdrive (that’s “Warn” with an “A”, NOT “worn”); 9 inch Ford rear with Detroit Locker and beefy Moser axles and 1/2ton ford drum brakes; Dana 37 front end with oversized 11 inch drum brakes; Aftermarket 1 inch bore master cylinder & remote reservoirs (needs steel brake lines run)(Diffs are painted with POR15); 5 Chrome 5-spoke rims (not rusted) with 12x33 tires (2 are like new Yokohamas, 2 are Bridgestone muds, worn but useable legal tread, spare is Dick Cipek Fun Country w/new tread); Steering box and steering shafts up to column (uses 2 aftermarket U-joints & 2 shafts); Drive shafts; Leaf springs, rear shocks and front shocks (front shocks are too long for factory mounts). Note: front upper shock mounts not fabricated yet, nor body mount tabs. 4 core custom radiator.; Bumbers (rectangular tube to look like originals.; Extra gears and U-joints; And of course there’s small items I haven’t mentioned. Does not have parking brake hardware. And there’s still some minor fabrication needed easy to fab body mounts. NOTE: I am willing to do any welding you need done to finish it up at no charge, to a point and limited time. (Don’t expect me to weld up a full blown rock-crawler roll cage for you, for example.) You fab the pieces and I can weld them into place if you bring it by my place (that includes spot welding for body pieces). I actually enjoy this kind of work but just don’t have the time, money, or shop to do it all in anymore.
Now the body and interior: NOTE: you can drop on any CJ5 body you want if you already have one or buy another OR finish up the one I have. OK, on with the details: After market bucket seats; rear bench seat (has one seam tearing but works just find as is); no carpeting; Wheel wells have been notched to move front seat back so a tall driver fits better (your knees are not so against the dash anymore); Custom dash, flat panel with mounting holes for 1-5/8” gauges (I’m keeping the gauges) 2 larger holes for speedometer and tach. You can cover over all holes with fancy plate or whatever and install whatever gauges you want. Original Jeep cluster gauges included and were functional; Electrical system is aftermarket made by Painless Wiring; Body tube is sand blasted and ready to be finished up, it had rotted floor so was cut all out. New rear floor section is made and needs to be welded or riveted into place. New rear panels on each side of the tailgate are made and need mounting (no tail light holes are cut so you can mount any type of tail light you want, but round trailer type lights are included); There are rectangular holes cut on each rear body corner that were rotted (easy sheet metal patch job); Another area cut on passenger side still needs patch cut and welded in. Drivers side already patched and new upright pillar made (pillar needs to be welded into place); New front floor panels are bent to go to firewall, side mounting pieces still need to be made. Still have original trans tunnel pieces (not rotted) you can use them or make something new. Has original under passenger seat tool box as well. Firewall was removed from tub using spot-weld cutter (not hacked out); I have a box of new under floor channel reinforcement pieces as well; Hood; Tailgate; Fenders (not in the best shape); Grill; Windshield frame and glass; Bikini top and complete top in good shape; Gas tank; I’m sure I’m forgetting a bunch of stuff. Also! 10,000 lb Warn wench sold separately for $600
asking $3000
In St. Louis, MO area
I am willing to part out, but first want to try to sell complete for the first 3 weeks of listing. So if interested in parts, write me. I have all parts for this (chevy engine in pictures not included, but willing to sell separately). The Jeep was running until I tore it down to fix some body rot. You are basically buying the custom rolling chassis and roll cage with complete drive train from the Chevy bell housing on back, almost- ready to have a body mounted and engine installed. Tossed in for free is the original body that needs finishing work and the interior and electrical pieces. No steering column included, but easy to find and cheep. The chassis and drive train have about 30k proven miles (not abusive driving, very little mild offroading since built). Drive train parts have all been overhauled within those 30k miles.
Chassis includes: Custom build 3x2 inch tube frame (.120” wall); Full roll cage; Chevy motor mounts; GM bell housing , Munci 4 speed transmission and frame cross member mount; Dana 18 transfer case; Warn overdrive (that’s “Warn” with an “A”, NOT “worn”); 9 inch Ford rear with Detroit Locker and beefy Moser axles and 1/2ton ford drum brakes; Dana 37 front end with oversized 11 inch drum brakes; Aftermarket 1 inch bore master cylinder & remote reservoirs (needs steel brake lines run)(Diffs are painted with POR15); 5 Chrome 5-spoke rims (not rusted) with 12x33 tires (2 are like new Yokohamas, 2 are Bridgestone muds, worn but useable legal tread, spare is Dick Cipek Fun Country w/new tread); Steering box and steering shafts up to column (uses 2 aftermarket U-joints & 2 shafts); Drive shafts; Leaf springs, rear shocks and front shocks (front shocks are too long for factory mounts). Note: front upper shock mounts not fabricated yet, nor body mount tabs. 4 core custom radiator.; Bumbers (rectangular tube to look like originals.; Extra gears and U-joints; And of course there’s small items I haven’t mentioned. Does not have parking brake hardware. And there’s still some minor fabrication needed easy to fab body mounts. NOTE: I am willing to do any welding you need done to finish it up at no charge, to a point and limited time. (Don’t expect me to weld up a full blown rock-crawler roll cage for you, for example.) You fab the pieces and I can weld them into place if you bring it by my place (that includes spot welding for body pieces). I actually enjoy this kind of work but just don’t have the time, money, or shop to do it all in anymore.
Now the body and interior: NOTE: you can drop on any CJ5 body you want if you already have one or buy another OR finish up the one I have. OK, on with the details: After market bucket seats; rear bench seat (has one seam tearing but works just find as is); no carpeting; Wheel wells have been notched to move front seat back so a tall driver fits better (your knees are not so against the dash anymore); Custom dash, flat panel with mounting holes for 1-5/8” gauges (I’m keeping the gauges) 2 larger holes for speedometer and tach. You can cover over all holes with fancy plate or whatever and install whatever gauges you want. Original Jeep cluster gauges included and were functional; Electrical system is aftermarket made by Painless Wiring; Body tube is sand blasted and ready to be finished up, it had rotted floor so was cut all out. New rear floor section is made and needs to be welded or riveted into place. New rear panels on each side of the tailgate are made and need mounting (no tail light holes are cut so you can mount any type of tail light you want, but round trailer type lights are included); There are rectangular holes cut on each rear body corner that were rotted (easy sheet metal patch job); Another area cut on passenger side still needs patch cut and welded in. Drivers side already patched and new upright pillar made (pillar needs to be welded into place); New front floor panels are bent to go to firewall, side mounting pieces still need to be made. Still have original trans tunnel pieces (not rotted) you can use them or make something new. Has original under passenger seat tool box as well. Firewall was removed from tub using spot-weld cutter (not hacked out); I have a box of new under floor channel reinforcement pieces as well; Hood; Tailgate; Fenders (not in the best shape); Grill; Windshield frame and glass; Bikini top and complete top in good shape; Gas tank; I’m sure I’m forgetting a bunch of stuff. Also! 10,000 lb Warn wench sold separately for $600
