Motobilt Jeep JKU Project

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This Jeep Wrangler JKU build is starting to evolve into a beast. When we were first approached about building a new JKU we started looking at the big picture. The customer wanted an all out Jeep build with custom axles, huge tires, and lots of power. We realized most of the Jeep Wrangler would not be used so why spend an enormous amount of money on a newer 4x4 JKU. We instructed him to purchase an early model JKU that was only 2wd. Since the 2wd models are undesirable as are the motors they are a tremendously more affordable.


So the search began and not that long passed when a good deal showed up and the Motobilt you see below began its new life. Lets make this easy and start with a bit of the build list.


Turnkey Engine Supply LS1 410 hp Street package
Complete TH400 built to the hilt
Atlas 2 Transfer case
1 ton axles
41.5" Irok Radials on 17x8.5 Trail Ready beadlocks.
Now if that's not enough to get you excited then just hold on for the ride. All new Motobilt bumpers, body armor, suspension, skid plates, and much more to come!


We started disassembly of the Jeep and pulled the body off of the frame.









Once the frame was separated from the body we pulled the stock drive train. We then removed all of the factory suspension brackets and engine mounts.







We called up Turnkey Engine Supply and ordered an LS1 410 HP Street Package engine. Details below:


Specs



Cubic Inch / LTR's: 346 / 5.7 Rods: Forged Powdered Metal Valve Springs: GM Beehive
Horsepower: 410 Pistons: Mahle Forged Retainers: Steel
Ft. Lbs. Torque: 420 Heads: Cast Aluminum Rockers: 1.7:1
Compression: 10.25:1 Chamber CC: 62cc Pushrods: 5/16" x 7.400"
Aspiration: Normal Intake Port CC: 200cc Lifters: Delphi Hydraulic Roller
Rev Limit RPM: 6000 Intake Port Style: Cathedral Camshaft: Hydraulic Roller
Block: Cast Aluminum Intake Valves: 1.890" Timing Chain Set: Single HD Roller
Bore x Stroke: 3.90" x 3.62" Exhaust Valves: 1.550" Intake Manifold:Composite
Crankshaft: Nodular Iron



In order to lift the GM LS engine into the Jeep we designed a set of LS Motor Lifting eyes since the GM block doesn't have mounting locations from the factory. We also angled the mounts so that they would clear the firewall when placing the motor. You can find the mounts on our site by clicking here.


We made a set of LS lifting eyes to place the motor in the Jeep

 

[motobilt]

This JKU will be the platform for many new Motobilt parts to come. One of them is our new Jeep JKU Rocker Guards.


Rockers installed


high lift jack points


High lift Jack mounts

You can find more information on the new Motobilt Jeep Wrangler JKU rocker guards by clicking here!

We are using Trail Ready 17x8.5 HD beadlocks on 41.5" Irok Radials. We built a GM 14 bolt rear axle to handle these massive meats in the rear. We then added our Motobilt GM 14 bolt rear race truss, diff cover, and disc brake kit.

GM 14 bolt race truss, diff cover, and disc brake brackets


Motobilt Race truss and pinion guard


41.5 Irok Radials on 17x8.5 Trail Ready HD Beadlocks


Race truss mocked up. You can also see the disc brake cit and rear diff cover
We will update this post so keep coming back.

 

[motobilt]

Update 9/27/2017


The LS1 conversion requires you to remove the factory mounts from the frame before a new set of mounts can be installed. Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel with a one off set of mounts we contacted some of the best in the business over at Novak Adapters. A simple phone call and a couple days later we had a set of GM Generation III & IV V8 Engine Mounts were on the way.




Each mount set contains left and right frame mounts, two sets of urethane bushings, two engine plates, along with the necessary installation hardware and instructions.


We were able to position the engine into the frame rails using our new Motobilt LS lifting eye's quite easily. Once the engine was in place everything was bolted in and positioned for welding. The Novak mounts are placed so that gaining access to weld is quite simple. We laid down a few beads to hold the mounts in place. Once we are confident in its location and the motor is pulled back out we will finish weld the mounts.