Tell me what to look for!!!

[signgrafix]

OK, I have decided to go with the 4.0 block with a 258 crank instead of the 258 for my 78 CJ5. So I am looking to purchase maybe a cherokee or somthing with the 4.0 so I can pull on the computer and fuel injection.
Now the question, I fiqure since I a buying it anyway, I might as well swap out the axles too. Currently I have the AMC 20 in the rear (narrow track) and I am thinking Dana 35 upfront?.
So what year and model do I need to be looking for for a good rear an front differential better that the AMC 20 and what ever is up front now. I want it to be wide track.

 

[signgrafix]

btt

 

[xjmarc]

I used Scout II Dana 44s in my 5 and they worked well.

 

[AA-CJ7]

If stock, you have a Dana 30 in the front. The D30 has a lot of aftermarket support to build it up, but if you're going wider it doesn't matter. A D44 would be the next step up, but what are you planning on doing with the Jeep?

For the rear you have the option of a 8.8 Ford which is a little wider wider than a CJ WT, stronger than a D44 and can be found with disc brakes and limited slip.

 

[signgrafix]

Maybe I need to rephrase my question, I want to find a Jeep with a 4.0 that I can take all the computer/fuel injection off of, AND that has a set of front and rear axles with a wide track that I can put under my jeep.

The way I look at it, if I am buying a whole vehicle, then I want one that I can use the front and rear end out of as well,

So I guess what I am wondering is, is there an jeep with a 4.0, and a DANA 44 and Dana 35 wide track under it. Might as use the trans to if it is better than mine. (3 speed manual)

 

[Saddle Tramp]

If you are going to swap in a 4.0 it is imperative you get everything from the donor vehicle. This not only includes the motor but the computer and all the wiring. In fact it would be best if you acquire the donor whole, strip out what you need as you do the swap, and part out the rest after you are done.

On a CJ the most common axle swaps are Scout Dana 44s. This is not without some issues however. The spring brackets need to be relocated on both the front and the rear but on the front the only way to make it work is to move the spring hangers outside of the frame as the Dana 44 center housing is too wide to place the spring brackets on the axle tubes. Another issue is the caster on the Scout axles. Scouts are set at 0 degrees and tend to not work well with Jeeps; the front end will wander. I don’t remember off hand how many degrees (only a few) need to be added for a CJ but in general the yokes/inside knuckles will have to be loosened from the axle tube and turned up to run properly. The other popular front Dana 44 axle swap is one out of a Waggy. The long side axle tube needs to be cut down but the caster works. Don’t misunderstand, both options are doable, they just cost money.

The Dana 35 is a rear axle and is worse than the Dana 30 you have in the front on your CJ. There are some beefed up axle kits for the Dana 30, although expensive too, depending upon how hard you drive your jeep may be a better choice for the front; no fabbing or bracket relocating etc, just axle work.

In the rear a one piece axle kit upgrade is a must for an AMC 20 and with one the 20 may be adequate again depending upon your use of the jeep. Its true the CJ AMC 20 axle tubes are also a weak link; too much tire and bouncing will bend the tubes and cause the center housing to crack where the tubes connect but if you don’t abuse it, it may be ok. As for as swaps a CJ5 Dana 44 used from 1972 to 1975 is one option, and the other is the rear end out of a 1972 – 1973 Commando; they will bolt right in.

But none of these options, with the exception of cutting down Waggy axles (could be depending up how much you cut off) are “wide track” solutions as you indicated you want.

 

[jps4jeep]

keep your axles, also look for a ODB1 vehicle for ease of the swap, I would look for either 94 or 95. once done, the front axle in these two rigs is desirable to TJ guys looking for a HP axle. also, the AW4 if equipted is a great auto and if you chose to re-sell, you'll get more money to re-coup the cost.

the xj will most likely have a D35 or a 8.25,

the 35 is, at best, a boat anchor, and has no other useful purpose.

the 8.25, if it is the 29 spline, is a decent axle, but I would keep your M20 rear.

 

[Crazy4diesels]

the 35 is, at best, a boat anchor, and has no other useful purpose.

.

That's not true... The 35 makes a nice redneck mailbox post as well

Back in "the day" we used to look for a Ford 9 inch axle out of a Mustang or Comet to replace the AMC 20. They were a little wider and pretty strong. These had a one piece welded up housing (no pressed together center pumpkin) with a "chuck" type carrier. I don't remember what mods are needed to install, though... The AMC 20's held up pretty well except for the "fuseable" axle shafts. - John

 

[Mooseknuckles]

the 35 is, at best, a boat anchor, and has no other useful purpose.

Weight lifting?

 

[xjmarc]

If you are planning on using a fuel injected 4.0 out of a donor vehicle the only issue I see is the t-case. These motors came in Wranglers, Cherokees and Grands all with a driver side drop and CJs have a passenger side drop. You don't really want the axles out of any of the above mentioned vehicles either. You could get an adapter to use a Dana 300 case with the 4.0 drivetrain and get some CJ7 or waggy wide track axles and make it work.