Upper sway bar link slop

bugleboy

New member
This past weekend I was driving down a washboard road at the beach and kept hearing a clunking, I came to a stop and turned my jeep off and had my dad forcefully rock my jeep side to side while I laid down under it to find the noise. Here is what I found




There appears to be a clearance issue with my upper sway bar link on the driver side. Im thinking im going to take off the bolt to see the damage in the morning. Maybe it just needs tightened again and for the clearance issue to be addressed? Anyone have any idea on the torque specs? Im still very new to wrenching and advice would be helpful.
2015 jku 3.6, 3 inch lift
93957019fdcccab473553b6ad12c17e7-1.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Just found the same recently. Use a pry bar to recenter. There are collar bar ends that you could put on the insides of the frame side bushings. I found them at granger though 4x4 shops sell them.

Torque spec for which bolt?


Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk
 
Looking for torque on the top bolt that has been making contact, also great idea im thinking i might pick up a set to keep everything where it needs to be once i sort this out

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
UPDATE: got the bolt out, the threads are trashed on that bolt but luckily the bushing looks okay. New question, are the front links supposed to be completely strait or are they bent slightly by design? Both have a slight bend in the same direction. The pic without the bolt is the troublesome driver side and the one with the top bolt is the pass side. Is it possible the bend is not suppose to be there or is the bend by design and just installed incorrectly? Both bends are in the same direction so that might be what has the sway bar "out of wack"
27e57b51e0c75fd229ecb2cc3d594903-1.jpg
a10934c4b7a202438425e46af1795010-1.jpg
61bfd25985b0c9e45ad5885b9a2054e6-1.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Found another casualty, guess ill do a whole new bushing set the metal cuff in the bushing is all messed up
129a83a4fd86df189ca0bda5d9b5d288-1.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
The metal busing is a crushable bushing for many.

Are they aftermarket links? Some are bent by design different than that.
I believe by design they want the axel connection as far out as they could, without tire interference. Same for the top but, there is a balance between tire contact during articulation and how long the torque bar is. In the end, the bottom is wider than the top therefore the bend or longer bolts w/bushings as spacers.

Collar clamp Ruland mfg makes them available at granger. But you could also get them from JKS, rough country and others. I measured my bar then ordered the correct size. The bushing I purchased was 30mm but the collar was 1-1/4" or 31.75mm figuring I could shim with rubber if needed. EDIT:They gave me 30mm and it works nicely.

Greaseable frame bushings from energy suspension or non grease ones from moog are favored. I went with grease able ones.


Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk
 
Last edited:

Bent yes they are bent by design and by looking at your photo the passenger side needs to rotate. Using the upper side as reference the side pressed against the sway bar needs to be rotated so it faces out and becomes the bolt head side. Top and bottom stay the same. Driver side looks correct.


Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk
 
Last edited:
Bent yes they are bent by design and by looking at your photo the passenger side needs to rotate. Using the upper side as reference the side pressed against the sway bar needs to be rotated so it faces out and becomes the bolt head side. Top and bottom stay the same. Driver side looks correct.


Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk
Upon inspecting the lift kit website i found that you are correct that connector is backwards and the bolts in the top end were installed backwards by the previous owner causing the clearance issue. The bolts have been stuffed into the frame so many times it ran the threads flat and i cant get the damn things off. I at least got them tightened back up enough to minimize play and ill keep it on the road till i can pick up an impact wrench monday to "persuade" them to come off. Unfortunately my work schedule has me booked full this weekend so itll have to wait for now :/ just gotta find the correct bolts and bushings to order from BDS in the meantime

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Ace hardware or true value has a lot of hardware I buy as replacement. i took my track bar bushing there to fit the largest bolt in. Fixed my death wobble issue. Take your old bolt and they could match it.
Also for me the 30mm split collar ends fit perfectly. Will post pics on rusted sway bar thread.


Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk
 

This is a 2015 JKU correct?

The bolts should face into the frame. They may be too long looking at all the thread past the nut. You don’t want the excess thread facing the tire.


Sent from my iPhone using Jeepz.com mobile app
 

How did you make out?


Sent from my iPhone using Jeepz.com mobile app
Man you were sure right about the tire clearance, im glad i have a "stock" set of 33s because i couldnt have cleared anything bigger. Definitely just moved sway bar quick disconnects up on my wishlist.
803049c648d282ecda965d4a98a6b94a-1.jpg
7b969544e2255383ede29c81981c3df3-1.jpg
e86ab6cbbc933ceb82d29fda9e079f78-1.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Reverse the bolt and cut it shorter. That is what I did. Post some pics soon.

Also odd is your sway bar bends out to the tire. Mine bends inward to the frame.

That is close.

Also how level is your sway bar. It should be ~10above the horizon.


Sent from my iPhone using Jeepz.com mobile app
 
Last edited:
Back
Top