4wd

[jfrabat]

Can you explain how it's a weak link?

Bounty, didn't you use o run this system with a spool and use 3 wheel drive when you needed to turn tightly? Did you ever had issues with it? I know the vacuum servo is famous for acting up, but if using a posilock or leaving it on, I also don't see where the weak link is...

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Yes I ran a lincoln locker (spool) for years in my d30 with 33" swampers and no issues from the disconnect. I used a vacuum switch from an SJ with Quadratrac to operate the disconnect manually. It was beat on pretty hard, including one rockcrawl comp.

 

[Go topless 87]

Well I installed the vacum disconnect upside down. Let's see how well it works. My front ds has some play in it where the two shafts slide together. I might have to get another front ds.

 

[Robert_Stephens]

If you do get a new DL (Drive Line-Drive shaft), go to a junk yard and get one from a F350 and have the CV joint put in at the TC end after its cut down for your Jeep. It will be a little cheaper than buying a new little tiny Jeep DL. Just a thought.

Robert

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

If you do get a new DL (Drive Line-Drive shaft), go to a junk yard and get one from a F350 and have the CV joint put in at the TC end after its cut down for your Jeep. It will be a little cheaper than buying a new little tiny Jeep DL. Just a thought.

Robert

The use of a CV driveshaft in the front would cause vibrations unless you pointed the front pinion up at the transfer case output, which would alter caster and make the jeep undriveable. Keep the standard style driveshaft in the front.

 

[Robert_Stephens]

The use of a CV driveshaft in the front would cause vibrations unless you pointed the front pinion up at the transfer case output, which would alter caster and make the jeep undriveable. Keep the standard style driveshaft in the front.

I disagree. I have F350s in VEX, front and rear, with the set up I've described, and there is NO vibration, ever. I have put about 650,000 miles on this set up since I did it in 1997 and it works perfect, velvet smooth and no errors and no longer break DLs and U-joints in off road touch places--especially with the ARBs. I did not change caster whatsoever in the TC-Trans, or front. I DID tilt the Dana 60-AMC-20 up about 12 degrees in the rear and that placated any vibration.

I have driven up to 80 MPH on freeways here in the states across the US and countless miles on third rate roads out of country and and then of course, offroad with no road or trails and to this time--no errors.

Just some alternative input. The double CV set up dampens all vibrations by design and works extremely well.

Robert

 

[jfrabat]

I disagree. I have F350s in VEX, front and rear, with the set up I've described, and there is NO vibration, ever. I have put about 650,000 miles on this set up since I did it in 1997 and it works perfect, velvet smooth and no errors and no longer break DLs and U-joints in off road touch places--especially with the ARBs. I did not change caster whatsoever in the TC-Trans, or front. I DID tilt the Dana 60-AMC-20 up about 12 degrees in the rear and that placated any vibration.

I have driven up to 80 MPH on freeways here in the states across the US and countless miles on third rate roads out of country and and then of course, offroad with no road or trails and to this time--no errors.

Just some alternative input. The double CV set up dampens all vibrations by design and works extremely well.

Robert

Just out of curiosity, why would you wan to complicate the front DS? I mean, the length is more than enough for a standard DS, so why go to CV? Oh, and CV does not necessarily dampen vibrations; if the angles are wrong, i will vibrate like CRAZY (dont ask how I know this!).

 

[Robert_Stephens]

Just out of curiosity, why would you wan to complicate the front DS? I mean, the length is more than enough for a standard DS, so why go to CV? Oh, and CV does not necessarily dampen vibrations; if the angles are wrong, i will vibrate like CRAZY (dont ask how I know this!).

Oh, after 30 years or so I got tired of the vibrations. Then, after a lift and no changes to angles it was worse. So, when I rebuilt VEX (and the previous 4, 7s I had before it) from that total, I wanted 1 ton status throughout as I had done before, and why in the end it ended up so heavy (way more than the others since I pulled the one Jeep apart) along with all the metal glued on it. But, it sure rides nice. The 1 ton DLs worked really well with the CVs at the TC end. There is no complication I can see or tell. They're easy to grease and heavy enough I haven't screwed them up. Last set of U-joints lasted 350k so that was nice as well.

For the front I left the angle as was with the D30, when I put in the 60s. The rear was different due to the lift, so tilted up using some easy geometry equations for departure angle and approach angel. I like when having it loaded for field use-weight, and have it ride so darn smooth hour after hour, like a car does. Very nice.

Hope that is helpful.

Robert

 

[Go topless 87]

So does the front ds have to be a two piece or can I go to a one piece?

 

[jfrabat]

So does the front ds have to be a two piece or can I go to a one piece?

In all honesty, I would go with a one piece; just simpler. You should not have to change out the DS.

 

[Go topless 87]

I don't wanna change the driveshaft but it's gotta lotta play where the two shafts slide together. I put grease in it and it still vibrates my teeth out at highway speeds. I'd the ds rebuildable?