Fuel pump swap

superj said:
that mr gasket pump is terrible. it was on my 6 cylinder jeep when i got it and it wouldn't keep the weber running properly. the holleys are great and you can get ones that have a higher volume then the low psi street carb models. i am just trying to keep you from having that mr gasket one crap out in a bad spot like the one i had did.

It's not mr gasket, it's Foch or something I forget but I got it from napa
 
looks just like it but hopefully its not. hopefully that'll last along time then.

did you get the air out so its pulling fuel upto the carb?
 

SteelHeadz said:
If it's a mechanical oil pressure gauge, all you need to do is hook up the gauge lamp with the rest of the instrument gauge wiring. Red is positive and black is ground. I installed my Mech. oil pressure line to the original oil pressure sending unit location which is on the passenger side frontal area of the block.
As Johnny commented earlier on the thread, mounting the fuel pump closer to the engine will increase the heat on the fuel as it's delivered to the carburator. If i remember correctly, i cut about 3 inches or the metal tube after it bends towards he fuel tank then used a rubber fuel line to connect the filters and pump to the fuel siphon tube in the tank. This will probbably help increase the longevity of the fuel pump since it's mounted on a cooler area and the crossmember will help disipate the heat generated by the fuel pump motor as well.

I looked at my gauge lamp and I have black and white. I can see the black is ground and the white connects elsewhere along with the other 3 gauges. I connected the pump to the white and I get nothing when I crank it and when I turn the lights on. But it works just fine when I connect it to the battery. Are you sure I'm suppose to connect it to the positive on the gauge light?


Superj said:
looks just like it but hopefully its not. hopefully that'll last along time then.

did you get the air out so its pulling fuel upto the carb?

yes I got all the air out. but the pump is not very good at holding it but that's ok i might just attempt to just put the pump at the back near the tank. ill do than next weekend, i should have listened to you guys earlier lol.oh well, live and learn i guess.
 
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I looked at my gauge lamp and I have black and white. I can see the black is ground and the white connects elsewhere along with the other 3 gauges. I connected the pump to the white and I get nothing when I crank it and when I turn the lights on. But it works just fine when I connect it to the battery. Are you sure I'm suppose to connect it to the positive on the gauge light?


I was reffering to the mechanical oil pressure gauge lamp wiring, not the fuel pump wiring. The fuel pump should be spliced into an ignition run circuit.
 
want to offer some clarification, the heat that is an issue is not just external heat source, like motor and exhaust, but also the pump itself. the pump will run a lot hotter up in the engine bay because the pump will work a lot harder sucking the fuel from the tank, the pump is not designed to be used as a sucking pump, the optimal efficiency and performance for the pump is to push the fuel. so due to the pump working harder, it will run hotter, you run the risk of partially attomizing the fuel in the fuel line, at a minimum the motor will run very rough, at worse, you will have vapor lock.

You seem hell bent on doing it your way, good luck.
 

So when going about doing it the right way I found this. It kind of looks like a fuel pump but there's no wires. Anyone know what it is? Maybe just a filter.
 

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That device is your liquid check. The 2 lines on bottom go to the fuel tank vents & the other goes to the carbon canister to recover all those precious fumes.
 
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