Carter AFB throttle body repairs (formerly Timing 180* out)

Turbogus

Turbogus

Active member
Since the electrical issues were addressed I am starting this new thread.
Stripped down the AFB to the bare throttle body and sent it up to Carbs Unlimited (Auburn, Wa.) last week for bushing installation to eliminate the fuel leakage at the throttle shafts and to address the resulting vacuum leak. Called them yesterday and the turnaround should be back Monday or Tuesday (I hope)
 

WOW! The postman stopped by and he had this on his truck on Saturday! I had only sent this throttle body on Thursday! The throttle shafts are tight now and I don't think they'll be giving me any more issues. I'm going to put Carbs Unlimited on my resouce list, these guys are GREAT!
http://www.carburetion.com/

Since the recent rebuild all the gaskets are in good shape, but I'm flirting with buying new.
 
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Now, the Echlin rebuild kit I got from NAPA included two sets of Needles (needle and seat) one pair with internal springs and one pair of solid. The instructions mention the spring type are for late model AFB's and the solids for earlier ones. In this process I've noticed these;
NS31730-1.jpg
that are for Marine and Off Road, are these the same as in the rebuild kit?
 
I am not sure, so im just assuming. I would think if they say it fits your carb and is the same size then yes.. mine say 110 on them for my holley.
 

P1060382.JPG

Well, this is what was in the Echlin rebuild kit, they look the same to me.
 
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Well, I assembled the AFB using these needles and something that has troubled me in the reassembly process is the fact that the tension springs for the air bleed adjustment screws are too long, so to achieve 1 1/2 to 2 turns from bottoming out, the springs need to be shorter if my eyeball measurements are correct. I've got another Chrysler AFB and the Edelborck Carter clone at home so I'm going to see if there's any difference.
 
I dropped by the local hardware store and got one gauge lighter springs that I'll cut to length so to achieve the initial air gap (mixture) 1.5 to 2 turns out.
 

That gauge of spring I was able to cut to length and is working great. Was able to get the initial 1.5 to 2 turns out from bottom and the spring tension is enough to hold in place. :D
 
was the replacement spring cut shorter or longer than the original? I want to try this on mine, I can only get about 3\4 turn out on mine.
 
I did my best to eyeball the clearance needed on the screw backed two turns out, (lacking the tool to mic it) and checking the compressed length of the new vs. the old spring. I detirmined that the new spring would be cut slightly shorter than the heavy stock spring but I was careful not to go too far on account of the smaller gauge wire.
 
The motor's running now, a little rough but I've yet to adjust the air screws and the ignition timing. In summary what caused my trouble seems to have been a perforated (sunken) float and the throttle shafts needed bushings on account of wear.
 

Well, looks like I spoke too soon. Spark plugs loaded up after initial startup. After these amny weeks of working on this I was ready this morning to just have it towed to the damm wrecking yard. :x

I'm thinking I may tear into the carb again (4th time) and see if those off road needles really fit the seats.
 
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Now that I've regained my brain and got out of that funk, I had a look at the original installation guide (from '85) and on page 4 the troubleshooting section the first item to check is needle and seat. Looking into my Strip Kit I took note that while the needles appear to have the same tip (save for one pair that are solid brass) the only difference is the float end;
a. was the check valve for the accelerator pump circuit

b.P1060417.JPG

c.P1060418.JPG

c1.P1060420.JPGThis one is the internal spring type (Marine/Off Road)?

d.P1060422.JPGNote the red tip on this one

Now where I seem to have gone wrong (unless I'm missing something ELSE) was at the seats where they are metered (like a jet) from what appears (by drill size);
1. 5/32
2. 3/32
3. 13/128???
and 4. 7/64

I have yet to tear into the air horn but I'm betting theres a honkin' large seat in there that's flowing too much fuel. Would anyone have information on the correct size for the flow differences between these for an AMC 304, 360 and 401?
 

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Okay, doing decimal conversions I detirmined that the smallest seat (3/32) is 0.0935 which is a stock factory diameter according to the Dave Emanuel book on Carters (c 1983 ISBN 0-931472-11-3), while what was in this AFB were monstrous 0.1094 another set were 0.1625! I'm reverting back to that O.E. seat in the hopes it'll take care of the flooding. Sidebar this large seat is what came in the Echlin rebuild kit, apparently for a B Mopar. Also I had maladjusted the accelerator pump, now within spec.
 
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Reinstalled the AFB with that small seat and the motor fired right up after fuel reached the carb, I'm hoping now I'm on the right track. Did I turn this 360 into a turn key?
 
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